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	<title>Comments on: Troybilt Chainsaw Update</title>
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	<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm</link>
	<description>Rants, Reviews, Politics, or whatever sits on my brain</description>
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		<title>By: Ryo</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-18169</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 23:49:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-18169</guid>
		<description>I got the 50cc 20&quot; nightmare from my father-in-law.  When i first grabbed the handle and twisted in my hand like a flip flop.  Dropped and limbed 2 trees without problems,  then the kill switch wires came off a couple times.   Luckily because the cheap handle is so plyable, it wasn&#039;t 2 tough to get it back on with needle nose pliers.  The saw doesn&#039;t have enough power to use the factory bucking teeth, unless you use such little pressure whats the point.  Then the same day, the handle breaks on me.  Good thing i wear steel toes because i couldnt kick it hard enough.  Put it back it its box and drove to the store and bought a Husqvarna.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I got the 50cc 20&#8243; nightmare from my father-in-law.  When i first grabbed the handle and twisted in my hand like a flip flop.  Dropped and limbed 2 trees without problems,  then the kill switch wires came off a couple times.   Luckily because the cheap handle is so plyable, it wasn&#8217;t 2 tough to get it back on with needle nose pliers.  The saw doesn&#8217;t have enough power to use the factory bucking teeth, unless you use such little pressure whats the point.  Then the same day, the handle breaks on me.  Good thing i wear steel toes because i couldnt kick it hard enough.  Put it back it its box and drove to the store and bought a Husqvarna.</p>
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		<title>By: Dean</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-18053</link>
		<dc:creator>Dean</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2010 20:18:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-18053</guid>
		<description>I got the 42CC saw a few years ago as a gift. The first year i used the saw only a few times seamed to do the job I had an issue with the choke design it kept coming apart on the inside of the saw.

Year 2 I sent it in to have the choke repaired. then the heat shield broke due to the chain coming off. After that the switch stopped working obviously a safety issue. Finally the bar oil stopped flowing&gt; I just sent it in to have the switch replaced and the oil problem solved, I was told that repairing the saw would cost more than a new one.

I guess you get what you pay for. Or maybe not</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I got the 42CC saw a few years ago as a gift. The first year i used the saw only a few times seamed to do the job I had an issue with the choke design it kept coming apart on the inside of the saw.</p>
<p>Year 2 I sent it in to have the choke repaired. then the heat shield broke due to the chain coming off. After that the switch stopped working obviously a safety issue. Finally the bar oil stopped flowing&gt; I just sent it in to have the switch replaced and the oil problem solved, I was told that repairing the saw would cost more than a new one.</p>
<p>I guess you get what you pay for. Or maybe not</p>
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		<title>By: chris boyle</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-18028</link>
		<dc:creator>chris boyle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:23:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-18028</guid>
		<description>I have found the chain has comes off often.  Much to often.  At first I thought it was due to me not adjusting the tension often enough, but after installing the second bar and chain, I now know it is the saw.
My adjustment is in the bar, has anyone contacted Troy-Bilt to see if the saw can be moded to have the adjustment in the saw itself.
It appears like the orginal design may have intended this. (after comparing to a Skil and Husky)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have found the chain has comes off often.  Much to often.  At first I thought it was due to me not adjusting the tension often enough, but after installing the second bar and chain, I now know it is the saw.<br />
My adjustment is in the bar, has anyone contacted Troy-Bilt to see if the saw can be moded to have the adjustment in the saw itself.<br />
It appears like the orginal design may have intended this. (after comparing to a Skil and Husky)</p>
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		<title>By: Jim from manitoba</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-18021</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim from manitoba</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Dec 2009 15:43:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-18021</guid>
		<description>I have the 49cc/20&quot; and have had the chain come off several times with org bar, but has been good with new bar.have bit of tbl with carb adjustment. other than that, works fine.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have the 49cc/20&#8243; and have had the chain come off several times with org bar, but has been good with new bar.have bit of tbl with carb adjustment. other than that, works fine.</p>
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		<title>By: Jon from Ohio</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-17915</link>
		<dc:creator>Jon from Ohio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:24:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-17915</guid>
		<description>I have had the TB4016 for a year and only have a few complaints.  Some times, when it&#039;s hot the kill switch doesn&#039;t work.  The heat shield above the front of the saw has stress fractured and rattles, not a big deal, some day I&#039;ll remove it.  The saw is great for an under 150 dollar saw.  It&#039;s the same as any Craftsman or a Polan.  Overall a nice friendly, easy to start saw.  Oh yeah, the oil does leak out over time, keep it in the case.  I run 40:1 mixure and use good quality oil, not what you buy at Lowes, but ATV and dirbike oil.  Try the Yamahlube or Maxxis.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have had the TB4016 for a year and only have a few complaints.  Some times, when it&#8217;s hot the kill switch doesn&#8217;t work.  The heat shield above the front of the saw has stress fractured and rattles, not a big deal, some day I&#8217;ll remove it.  The saw is great for an under 150 dollar saw.  It&#8217;s the same as any Craftsman or a Polan.  Overall a nice friendly, easy to start saw.  Oh yeah, the oil does leak out over time, keep it in the case.  I run 40:1 mixure and use good quality oil, not what you buy at Lowes, but ATV and dirbike oil.  Try the Yamahlube or Maxxis.</p>
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		<title>By: bill knight</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-17741</link>
		<dc:creator>bill knight</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 01 Aug 2009 13:32:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-17741</guid>
		<description>you would think that troybilt would take care of the gas tank leakage issue, was going to buy a troy bilt saw but not now</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>you would think that troybilt would take care of the gas tank leakage issue, was going to buy a troy bilt saw but not now</p>
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		<title>By: Andy</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-16816</link>
		<dc:creator>Andy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Feb 2009 03:35:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-16816</guid>
		<description>Just saw a Troy Built TB4016 40cc 16&quot; bar at Fred Meyers on clearance for $83.00. These are brand new with the case. Stumbled across your site looking for info on these for comps. Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just saw a Troy Built TB4016 40cc 16&#8243; bar at Fred Meyers on clearance for $83.00. These are brand new with the case. Stumbled across your site looking for info on these for comps. Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-16726</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 03:40:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-16726</guid>
		<description>Forgot to mention that while trying to troubleshoot the starting issue, I tested the switch &amp; it basically fell apart in my hands, I need to know, in the &quot;ON&quot; position, are the switch contacts normally closed, or normally open??? anyone know offhand?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Forgot to mention that while trying to troubleshoot the starting issue, I tested the switch &amp; it basically fell apart in my hands, I need to know, in the &#8220;ON&#8221; position, are the switch contacts normally closed, or normally open??? anyone know offhand?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Dan</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-16718</link>
		<dc:creator>Dan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Nov 2008 20:23:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-16718</guid>
		<description>I have the 42cc\18 inch bar that I bought a couple years ago @ Canadian Tire. After driving all over town &amp; stopping at half a dozen places I finally found a spark plug (NGK 7599 CMR5H). Unfortunately that didn&#039;t fix the no start issue. I&#039;m hoping it&#039;s something simple, will have to tear it apart for better diagnostics.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have the 42cc\18 inch bar that I bought a couple years ago @ Canadian Tire. After driving all over town &amp; stopping at half a dozen places I finally found a spark plug (NGK 7599 CMR5H). Unfortunately that didn&#8217;t fix the no start issue. I&#8217;m hoping it&#8217;s something simple, will have to tear it apart for better diagnostics.</p>
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		<title>By: Steve Walter</title>
		<link>http://www.bradsblog.net/troybilt-chainsaw-update.htm/comment-page-1#comment-16706</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve Walter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2008 23:58:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bradsblog.net/?p=61#comment-16706</guid>
		<description>I have a 46cc and a 42cc.   The 46cc had an interesting rattle and as one of the posters listed above, it was a cylinder type babble in the muffler.  I took it out and tossed it and it has been fine.  My 42cc has a fuel leak.  I have completely dismantled the entire saw and separated the tank bottom.  It seems to have been leaking on the interior seam of the fuel tank.   I have tried three different gasket sealants/epoxy&#039;s and given up.  Going to order a new tank, but seems the problems are consistent.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 46cc and a 42cc.   The 46cc had an interesting rattle and as one of the posters listed above, it was a cylinder type babble in the muffler.  I took it out and tossed it and it has been fine.  My 42cc has a fuel leak.  I have completely dismantled the entire saw and separated the tank bottom.  It seems to have been leaking on the interior seam of the fuel tank.   I have tried three different gasket sealants/epoxy&#8217;s and given up.  Going to order a new tank, but seems the problems are consistent.</p>
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